Don Peppe Reservations

Open since 1968 on Lefferts Boulevard a mile from Aqueduct Racetrack, Don Peppe runs cash only, family style, and menu-on-a-wall. Let your server order: they'll bring baked clams crisped nearly black on top, fried red peppers in garlic and olive oil, shrimp Luciano over pasta in garlic-butter with caramelized onions, and advise you that noon is a perfectly fine time for wine. Phone reservations.