Emilio's Ballato Reservations

Emilio Vitolo has run this Nolita red sauce institution since the 1990s, when he bought the original Ballato's that opened in 1956, and he's usually at the corner table watching the room. No reservations, no call-ahead, and a line on East Houston that regularly hits two hours. The chicken parm, bolognese, and baked clams are the public menu; the Vitello Antonio, a 16-ounce veal chop in vodka sauce with prosciutto and fresh mozzarella, is on the secret one. Ask your server. Walk-in only.